September 9, 2014

2011 Sauska Cuvee 105

“Full, bright yellow with green highlights.  Ripe, highly complex aromas of smoke, saffron, rosemary and minerals.  Plush, sweet and concentrated but less open to inspection today than the Furmint Birsalmás, with ripe acidity keeping the wine’s smoky richness under wraps.  Finishes broad, tactile and saline, with a stony note and enticing floral lift.  This wine appears to have been bottled with more CO2 than the other dry 2011s here and showed building sweetness and richness, as well as more oakiness, with 24 hours in the recorked bottle, without losing its shape.” 90(+?)

2011 Sauska Furmint Birsalmás

“Bright medium yellow.  Aromas of fresh apricot, orange zest, cinnamon and flinty minerals.  Suave, round, broad and quite dry, with lovely extract and concentration to the smooth stone fruit, smoke, lichee, brown spice and honey flavors.  There’s an element of oiliness buffered by dusty minerality here that contributes to the wine’s density and sophistication of texture.”  Birsalmás used to be this estate’s flagship wine before they introduced the Medve bottling in 2012. “90

2011 Sauska Cuvee 107

“Light, bright yellow-gold.  Smells like a serious white Burgundy on the nose, offering scents of apricot, flowers, minerals, ginger, truffle and iodiney minerality, plus sexy oak tones that mounted with air.  Rich, broad, deep and quite dry in the mouth, with lovely minerality to the flavors of stone fruits, honey, smoke and flowers accented by brown spices and vanillin oak.  Finishes with very good sneaky length and an impression of strong extract.  I wanted to rate this superb wine even higher but the oak element became more apparent with extended aeration.  (Incidentally, I did not care for this wine a year ago at the Pannon Wine Challenge, finding it too oaky and raw.  The additional year in bottle has brought much more definition and harmoniousness, and it’s entirely possible that this wine will merit an even higher score with further aging.” 91(+?)

2012 Sauska Furmint Medve

“Full yellow-gold color gives an unfiltered appearance.  Knockout nose combines a hint of apricot, orange zest, medicinal herbs, smoke and flinty, rocky nuances; more about soil than primary fruit.  Silky, mouthfilling and rich but laid-back on the palate, with a powerful spine of rocky minerality and firm lemony acidity giving a wonderfully light touch to the intense, very dry flavors of apple, stone fruits and smoke.  This savory, tactile, extremely long wine really echoes and builds on the very long, gripping back end.  As good a wine as I’ve tasted to date from the hot, dry 2012 vintage.” 93

2003 Sauska Tokaji Aszu Essencia

Full orange-bronze.  Pours thick.  Distinctly old-style aromas of dried apricot, nut oil, molasses, hazelnut, smoke, toffee, walnut and truffle.  Thick and hugely sweet, with powerful acidity and an orange marmalade quality enlivening the creamy, saline apricot, nut and earth flavors.  Plenty of supersweet honeyed botrytis here.  (An earlier bottle showed honeyed botrytis tones and huge sweetness but was lower-toned and a bit more old-fashioned, with a higher perceptible level of volatile acidity; I scored this sample 92.

Forrás: Hungary`s 21st-Century Tokajis, Steve Tanzer`s International Wine Cellar, #175